A naturally-occuring substance is included in a lot of skincare products and is the main dermal filler used in injections, either to create volume or improve skin performance.
This substance is a very interesting little molecule – well, big molecule actually.
The first thing we need to go over when talking about this particular substance is its size. It’s big. It matters. There are two main forms of this dermal filler substance, which comes originally in a powder – high molecular weight (HMW) and low molecular weight (LMW). Molecular weight is just what it sounds like – the weight or mass of a molecule, which may relate to how big the molecule is and how it is able to behave in the body because of its size.
The HMW version is used in dermal filler injections as is, but the LMW version is used in skincare, like creams. The reason for this is that the HMW version of this substance is too big to fit through any skin layers, so instead sits on top. If it is injected as a dermal filler, however, it behaves normally inside the skin.
This dermal filler substance is produced inside our bodies, so doesn’t ever naturally have to get through skin layers to get inside our bodies. Instead, it acts as a hydrating molecule, with one gram able to absorb six litres of water, and some variants of it able to carry a thousand times their weight in water. This means that it can carry other molecules and items back and forth between our skin cells and our blood vessels. It cushions our joints, skin, eyes, and connective tissue. It’s everywhere.
When applied to the outside of the skin as part of a cream or a serum, this substance is more likely to come in the LMW form. One issue with this is it has been postulated that the LMW version is actually inflammatory to tissue, thus producing visible results faster via untoward means. This means that the HMW version should be used in creams as well as dermal fillers, which works as a hydrating unit that helps keep skin hydrated. Hydrated skin is healthy skin.
Because this substance is such an absorbent molecule, it is impossible to have a cream with a high proportion of this as an ingredient. The most you can get is a one or two per cent serum, which is a small amount of substance powder plus heaps of water – it will just keep absorbing until its full (saturation point), and that is what you get in both creams, as a tiny fraction, pure serums, and what clinics receive in their dermal filler products. A pure serum is likely to only have a preservative, the active substance, and water as ingredients – that’s all you need.
If you think about just how absorbent this molecule is, then you will see that a serum must be fully hydrated with plenty of water to be effective as a moisturising agent, or it will dry out your skin in its attempts to hydrate itself. Any serum claiming to be more than two per cent should ring alarm bells.
Dermal filler – Melbourne clinic
This substance as a dermal filler is used in its hydrated form too, since you want the molecule to be useful, as opposed to sucking up every bit of water in your skin after injections.
We use this substance in our Melbourne clinic as our primary dermal filler because it not only acts as a hydrating agent, it is non-allergenic, safe, and stimulates collagen and elastin production too.
We love our dermal fillers.